New York is filled with magic, but one of my favorite things to do when visiting Manhattan is to take in the latest Broadway smash and then stroll through the Theatre District to Aureole New York for an elegant late-night dinner or nightcap. If you’re lucky enough to do so through a light snowfall (as we did on our last visit), then trust me, it’s an even more unforgettable experience.

Dining Room (E. Laignel)

But the wine experience at Aureole is even more unique due to the many old Madeiras on its list. As you know from my blog, I love anything vintage. So, it’s not surprising that I also have a weakness for old Madeiras, and I’ve tried several at Aureole such as a 1968 D’Oliveira Boal and a 1977 D’Oliveira Terrantez. My favorite was an 1834 Barbeito Malvasia Reserva Velha, which my wife and I enjoyed while sitting at the bar at Aureole after seeing A Gentleman’s Guide to Love and Murder one snowy winter evening. (The 1834 Malvasia was scored a 96 by both Robert Parker and Wine Spectator, and I think they underrated the vintage. It was bursting with toffee and fruitcake on the nose with layers of dark chocolate, caramel and walnuts in the mouth with a long, lingering finish – truly a glass worth savoring and remembering.)

The menu at Aureole, the Michelin starred flagship restaurant of Charlie Palmer, epitomizes the sophistication of Chef Palmer’s progressive American cuisine. But what you may not know is that Aureole’s wine list is equally acclaimed. A consistent winner of the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence, Aureole offers more than 1,700 wines from its stunning elevated cellar, which houses over 15,000 bottles from around the world. Aureole’s wine list, also boasts over two dozen by-the-glass offerings, which the Sommelier staff will cheerfully match to the exquisite seasonal tasting menus.

Carrie Lyn Strong, Wine Director (M. Weisburg)

Aureole’s wine list is overseen by its Wine Director, Carrie Lyn Strong. Strong took a roundabout path to becoming a Wine Director. After graduating from Lafayette College with double majors in English and Art (and an impressive career in Track & Field), Strong entered the restaurant industry and worked her way up through the ranks. Stints at New York’s Tao, Vong, Ai Fiori, Artisanal Bistro, Mercer Kitchen and The Harrison, and a Sommelier Certificate from the American Sommelier Association, all led to her current role at Aureole. “I had a slightly different introduction into the world of wine than most of the new Sommeliers today. I started as a restaurant manager before working as a Beverage Manager under Bernard Sun for Jean-Georges LLC rather than a Captain or Junior Sommelier.” Strong believes that broader background was instrumental in her successful development, “I had a lot more responsibilities than working the floor and keeping a cellar organized, so I learned how to multitask, manage people, act as a liaison with many chefs, address guests, work with budgets and purchasing, and deal with a myriad of general issues — all of which make me a stronger Wine Director.” That experience helps her understand the relationship between the wine list and the wine service at Aureole. “I feel like a coach rather than a boss, because I have worked so many different stations as a manager and understand what each staff member has to do to be successful on a nightly basis.” Strong also has fun with her Sommeliers, though, and thinks the benefit of her experience gives them a competitive edge. Based on my own experience with Aureole, I think she’s absolutely right.

However, Strong points out that she did not have to overhaul Aureole’s existing wine list when she arrived, as its wine list had already been around at that point for over twenty years. “The wine list at Aureole is a vast, historic compilation of wines and the people who made them successful – including the guests!” While some overly ambitious Wine Directors may have ignored the success of Aureole’s wine list and been too quick to recast it in their own image, Strong embraced the rich tradition of Aureole’s wine list and understood then (and still believes now) that she’s the wine list’s latest caretaker. “I understand that no matter what I could add to Aureole’s list, the history of it will forever be more important than anything I could ever do for it,” says Strong. So Strong chose to temper her expertise with restraint, preferring to subtly refine Aureole’s wine list rather than turning her back on the success of the past.

Wine Mezzanine (E. Laignel)

That said, Strong understands that the best wine lists are dynamic and benefit from ongoing maintenance. “I truly believe the list lets me know what it needs — whether it’s a certain price point or regional or stylistic additions. There are always ways to direct our ever evolving wine list – I just have to pick up on the clues and act on it.” In essence, Strong’s role is to assist Aureole’s wine list in being the best it can be. “While back vintages and classic producers from all over the world preside, it is important for me to keep the list relevant, showcasing up and coming wine regions and wine makers. It’s also important to pay attention to trends in wine culture and media.” Strong acknowledges that the increased appreciation for fine wine shines an even brighter spotlight on Aureole’s award-winning list. “Consumers are much more savvy about wine than they have ever been. Guests are more inquisitive and adventurous, which makes my job even more challenging and fun!”

“The list has a strong French, Italian and German Old World presence, though it acknowledges Austria and Spain and even gives a nod to Hungary and (the ever-growing in popularity) Greece,” explains Strong. But, it also embraces fine wines from the New World. “Our list also boasts a great California weight, while championing Chile, Argentina, New Zealand and Australia – and smaller domestic regions like Oregon, New York and Washington State.” Aureole’s list also displays an impressive array of the traditional wine maker rock stars, but includes many up and coming wine makers (such as Michael Cruse and Justin Willett) who are sure to be household names in the wine world in the not too distant future.

“We have such a broad range of guests at Aureole that we need to speak to a wide range of palates and ever-changing expectations,” says Strong. She also likes to challenge and educate guests by removing predictable wines from the by-the-glass list and exposing them to unexpected varietals. “Rather than a Pinot Grigio by the glass, I offer a Trebbiano from the historical Amarone producer, Bertani, and rather than offering a Cabernet Sauvignon by the glass, I offer a predominantly Merlot Bordeaux blend from New Zealand’s Craggy Range.” With a nod to the sophistication of Aureole’s wine patrons, Strong adds “I also try to offer a range of half bottles for those interested in higher end wines in smaller quantities like Kongsgaard’s The Judge, a 1996 Cos d’Estournel or a vertical of Opus One.”

Prime Dry Aged Ribeye (E. Laignel)

As far as her own palate, Strong says she prefers wines that pair well with food – not surprising for someone exposed nightly to Aureole’s award-winning cuisine, but her taste was heavily influenced by her earlier positions, as well. “I learned about pairing from premier Fromager Max McCalman while working as a Floor Manager at Artisanal Bistro. There were over 200 wines by-the-glass and over 200 cheese options to learn, particularly how food and wine can either make a great pairing or not. While working for Bernard Sun, I developed an understanding for acidity in wine and how it affects and is wildly important when pairing with food.” Strong, who clearly understands the impact food and wine can have on each other, confesses that “there is nothing in life that can replace the feeling I get when enjoying a great pairing. A good friend of mine who feels the same about food and wine told me to stop talking at one point during a dinner at Gary Danko, so she could just enjoy the pairing.”

While any wine that makes it to the Aureole list is undeniably special in its own right, Strong graciously shared the following recommendations:

Splurge-Worthy: 

Amarone, Bertani, Veneto, Italy 1975 ($945): “I normally prefer French reds, but this 40-year-old is absolutely stunning with balance and so many layers of flavors.”

Hidden Gem:

Riesling, Rippon, Lake Wanaka, Central Otago, New Zealand 2012 ($70): “This dry Riesling has such amazing character from the ripe white peaches to the steely minerality. Few people look to New Zealand for Riesling, but they should!”

On a Budget:

Ladoix Blanc, Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey, Le Clou d’Orge, Burgundy, France 2012 ($75): “With vineyards right next to the Corton hill and even some of the grapes from the Ladoix-Serrigny Commune making it into Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru bottles, Chardonnay from this AOC is a steal! Whites are clean and fresh with an amazing amount of depth.”

You may visit Aureole for its Michelin starred cuisine, stellar service and award-winning expansive wine list, but don’t forget to indulge in one of its old Madeiras. As my wife and I sipped on our 1834 Malvasia, we couldn’t help but think of another attorney who was in only his second year of practice when that Madeira was fortified — his name was Abraham Lincoln. You can’t help but think about the past when you’re holding history in a glass…

Aureole New York
One Bryant Park
135 West 42^nd Street
New York, New York 10036 (Theatre District)
212.319.1660
www.charliepalmer.com/aureole-new-york
Wine Director: Carrie Lyn Strong

(Photos courtesy of Eric Laignel, Marc Weisburg and Aureole.)