While I’m partial to big, decadent reds such as Amarones, there are some occasions when only Champagne will do. Whether it’s a confession of infatuation to a new crush, toasting your enduring love or marking one of life’s important milestones, Champagne is de rigueur for most of our celebrations. Maybe it’s the festive pop at opening, the golden (or translucent Rosé) color or the strands of tiny jewel-like bubbles, or maybe it’s a nod to tradition or the effort that goes into the cuvée, but whatever the reason a good Champagne certainly makes an occasion even more special.

Champagne Georges Foret Advertisement c. 1902

For me, there’s nothing better than celebrating with a truly special vintage Champagne. The consistency and reliability of non-vintage house styles is important, and prestige cuvées such as Dom Pérignon and Cristal are undeniably as impressive as they are expensive, but the additional richness and complexity of most vintage Champagnes is well worth the increase in price. Plus, looking back over the years it’s been the vintage Champagnes that continue to stand out in my memory. (Like the 2005 Bollinger “Grande Année” Cara and I popped when we finally paid off my student loans.)

If you’re unfamiliar with some of the styles and producers, ordering Champagne can be intimidating at times, particularly under the gaze of someone you’d like to impress. To give you the best chance to wow your Valentine, I sought the input of A.J. Ojeda-Pons, the award-winning sommelier at The Lamb’s Club in New York. A.J. is an internationally renowned wine expert who has been featured as a guest on Bravo’s Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen and as a Wine Expert on FOX’s Good Day New York.

A.J. Ojeda-Pons

The Lambs Club, at The Chatwal Hotel in the Theatre District, is known almost as much for its impressive wine list as for Chef Geoffrey Zakarian’s inventive modern American cuisine. Under A.J.’s stewardship, The Lambs Club has maintained “Two Glasses” in Wine Spectator’s annual Restaurant Awards since 2013 and its wine list was awarded “Three Stars” in The World of Fine Wines’ World’s Best Wine Lists in 2015 and 2016. The Lambs Club’s wine list features four pages of sparkling wines, including over 20 vintage Champagne choices (and two Jeroboam offerings for larger celebrations), so trust me – A.J. knows bubbly. (He was also crowned by GQ as the nation’s Best-Dressed Sommelier in 2014, so I bet he knows how to impress a date, too.)

I asked A.J. for some tips for navigating an expensive wine list on Valentine’s Day, and his first recommendation was to remember it’s a special evening and be prepared to spend a bit. “Any great restaurant will have very expensive bottles, but there are many wines in the sweet spot of $80 – $120 that will still make your dining experience memorable,” he noted. “Markups vary depending on what area  you’re in – but are generally 250% – 400%. So, a bottle you can get at retail for $20 can be $60 to $80 on a wine list depending on the restaurant.” Since the sommelier knows his list better than you, A.J. recommends sharing your preferences and how much you’re prepared to spend and letting the sommelier guide you – “otherwise you’ll be flipping pages endlessly and uncomfortably” – not the way you want to start your romantic night.

A.J. also shared a few insider secrets for impressing a date when ordering Champagne. “If you want to impress your date, always be prepared. Do your homework!,” he advises. “There are five basic Champagne styles: non-vintage, Blanc de Blancs (always 100% Chardonnay), Blanc de Noirs (100% Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier), vintage (always more expensive) and Rosé. An easygoing, approachable style that is favored by many is non-vintage. Most wine lists will have well-known brands, and even if you don’t recognize any of them don’t worry, as long as it’s real Champagne you will have a great quality wine. If you prefer a leaner, pure style go for Blanc de Blancs. If you want a bit more body or concentration, Blanc de Noirs are perfect. If you really want to hit it out of the ballpark, choose a vintage Champagne. Also, don’t forget that Rosé Champagne is extremely versatile and pairs well with many dishes.”

A.J. recommends picking a style that sounds most appealing to you, then “look up the wine list online (if available), and narrow down your choices by price point, and have two to three options pre-selected.” Once you’ve done that, A.J. said “you can also call the restaurant and pre-order the wine. Otherwise, request to speak with the Sommelier when you’re at the table and be very clear about your style, body, flavor profile and price point – that shows confidence!” Sommeliers deal with wines on a daily basis, so don’t be shy about seeking their assistance so you can get back to concentrating on your special guest.

Mezzanine Bar, The Lambs Club

I asked A.J. to recommend a few bottles and Champagnes by the glass that he’d particularly recommend for Valentine’s Day at The Lambs Club. “Our by the glass list includes several gems from smaller producers ​​​like La Caravelle,  ​Diebolt-Vallois, ​Lilbert-Fils, ​Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche, Vilmart ​and some premium producers like ​Krug​. In our by the bottle selection there are great choices from small growers like Dhondt-Grellet, Barrat-Masson, Billecart-Salmon and Agrapart, but also well-known picks like Moët & Chandon’s ‘Dom Perignon,’ Bollinger ‘Grande Annee,’ Krug Vintage and Pommery’s ‘Cuvee Louise.’”

As usual, I also asked A.J. for recommendations for a splurge-worthy bottle, a hidden gem bottle and a bottle to buy when on a budget (whether celebrating at The Lambs Club or enjoying a more intimate evening at home):

Splurge worthy:

Salon, Le Mesnil sur Oger, 2002 ($850 at The Lambs Club):  100% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Intense minerality, a crisp core of lemon and apple balanced by yeast, with a gloriously long finish. Every bit deserving of its 100 points rating from Wine Enthusiast.

Hidden Gem:

Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche “Reflet d’Antan” Marne ($190 at The Lambs Club): Solera-esque aging produces deep golden color, with rich pear, almond and baked apple flavors.

On a Budget:

Pol Roger, Réserve, Epernay ($100 at The Lambs Club):  Straw gold, fine bubbles, a floral bouquet and notes of brioche. Sir Winston Churchill couldn’t have been wrong.

Keep these tips in mind when ordering your bubbly and your evening will get off to a great start. How it ends is up to you . . .

Suggested pairing:

A Kiss to Build a Dream On – Louis Armstrong (1951)
My Funny Valentine – Ella Fitzgerald (1956)

The Lambs Club
132 West 44th Street
New York, NY 10036 (Theatre District)
212.997.5262
www.thelambsclub.com
Wine Director: A.J. Ojeda-Pons

(Photos of The Lambs Club and staff courtesy of Key Group Worldwide.)